This is the plate assembly that will go into the inside of the cap. I made a template out of cardboard for getting the plates centered and to make the accurate location of the holes that needed to be drilled for the bolts that will go through the cap to the outside for the electrical connections. I used the unit body as a stand while I had this inverted to study how everything fit through the holes I drilled through the cap epoxy and all. I drilled the holes out to 1/2 inch diameter and used JB Weld to fill the bottom of the holes with the plates down. In order to do this I removed the cap from the position you see it here and set it inverted with the plates resting on the table and cap on top. I then made sure all connections were very tightly bolted up and used Stainless Steel washers blocking off the holes so the JB Weld wouldn't leak out. I did not fill the holes completely up with JB Weld only using enough to set things up and seal the holes checking for correct alignment regularly. Once the JB Weld sets up, about couple of hours or so depending on temperature, you won't be able to move them without cracking or damaging the JB Weld affecting the integrity of your cap. So make sure and get it aligned properly and check it often until the JB Weld sets up. You'll have to wait until the next day before finishing this. But first, before doing this step with the JB Weld or suitable epoxy, you need to set up the plates first. I'll show you how I did this in the next series of pictures. In this picture the plates are just sitting there and not held by epoxy just testing for fit. Notice I'm already insulating the exposed metal with vinyl using nylon tie straps to hold it all in place at the plates on the bottom of the electrode assembly where the bolts connect before jutting down through the drilled holes in the cap. I've also used vinyl spacers between the plates to keep the edges spaced properly. All of this will keep the plates even and stop voltage leaking that will reduce the efficiency of this unit. I've used nylon spacers between the plates where the nylon bolts go through holding the plates together.

Plate preparation:
I sanded these plates with 60 grit sand paper. I wore latex rubber gloves to avoid touching the plates with my fingers to avoid getting any oil on the surface. This is very important! I believe this is the reason this unit works so much better than the previous one. When sanding try real hard to sand diagonally to create as much gouging as possible which creates more surface area for gas bubbles to form. Plates need to be separate, but very close. Too close and shorting can occur. I try for a space of around 1/16 of and inch. If the spacing isn't uniform then electron leakage occurs and production will drop. This is the heart of the unit and care taken here will be rewarded later once the unit is in service. I mixed up some distilled water with sodium hydroxide, one teaspoon l per quart/liter. I broke in the plates by filtering the mixed electrolyte through a coffee filter. I added some distilled water to the unit then added the electrolyte little by little until I got to the amperage I wanted. After running the unit for 2 hours at about 15 amps you should be able to stop the unit and drain the electrolyte. Filter the electrolyte, which by this time has taken on a more clear color, and put it into a sealed bottle. Carbon dioxide in the air will ruin the electrolyte so make sure the bottle is air tight! When you remove the plates they should now be taking on a nice golden color. This is how I broke in my electrodes and made up my electrolyte that I currently use. Sodium Hydroxide is the chemical in many products sold to open clogged drains. Check the label and buy 100 percent sodium hydroxide. Use care handling this mix following the warnings on the label.

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