Since I made my test unit from 4 inch PVC pipe I bought at the local hardware store I'm using this rubber cap that was also available at the hardware store for easy access whenever I need to open this unit. I made two holes in the top and inserted two stainless steel screws. I put nuts and washers between the rubber using silicone sealant to prevent air leaks. I tightened this down with the opposing nuts to pinch the rubber for an air-tight seal. I've added wires, as you see here, that will connect to the power source. On the inside I connected my short wires that will connect these terminals to the two terminals on the plates just assembled. The wire I'm holding up, for the positive wire, has a fuse connected for safety. I'm using a 30 amp fuse, but this unit should never draw anywhere close to that many amps. If the fuse blows it could be a sign of a short somewhere in the plates. I could have drilled and tapped the PVC itself for the wiring and would have been easier to seal air-tight. But would have been more difficult to remove the plates. This way I can just lift the plates out when I remove the top.

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