Hydrogen Generator Assembly
Update September 21, 2009
My latest hydrogen generator video of the Dry Cell
installation on a 67 VW Beetle.
July 28, 2009
My latest hydrogen generator video of the working Hydrogen
Generator installed on my AMC Gremlin. (Several improvements made)
Hydrogen Generator Update
Page (Updated July 28, 2009)
Check out my video of this unit operating under the hood of my AMC Gremlin:
Hydrogen Generator Test
Click this link for more details in the construction of this unit on the Gremlin or the VW
Beetle.
Arthur Nesmith
July 28, 2009
I've made a new video of the hydrogen unit installed on my AMC Gremlin showing the improvements made. This unit can
be run for hours without any problems. It has improved mileage 35-45 percent consistently. It has real style too,
dressing up the engine compartment too. The two previous videos are my final experiments with venturi water flow
designs and the study of stationary magnets of foam control in the water/electrolyte. While you can't see them, the unit
on the Gremlin has several ceramic magnets in the hydrogen unit near the top to demagnetize the hydrogen/oxygen bubbles
so they dissipate quicker from the water. This unit used the natural flow of hydrogen to pump water in and out of the
hydrogen generator itself to prevent overheating of the unit on long trips. Here is a link to the Hydrogen Generator on the AMC
Gremlin.
May 15, 2009
I've been remiss in updating this information despite being somewhat busy. Basically, the best information I have to
share deal with Faraday's Law the the probable reason a hydrogen generator can be around 40% of Faraday's Law, meaning
you are 60% in a deficit, yet you get an increase in mileage. As many already know, I was very negative about these
hydrogen generators and fabricated a simple one to prove they don't work. Of course, despite being in a deficit
situation and should have seen mileage drop, I saw mileage increase and consistently stay higher unless the unit was
unplugged where mileage resumed to the point it was prior to attaching the unit. This started me on a amateur course
building these and reading what others had done incorporating good ideas into my unit design. Along the way I've come
across really good ideas and designs shared with me by others on the Internet. I've tried to be equally generous with
my work and will continue to be. I've come across many ideas that were not working properly despite claims to the
contrary, but that is to be expected. I also did what most people building these units did in that I felt if a little
HHO (Hydrogen - 2 parts; Oxygen - 1 part) was good, then more was better. Of course, I was making moderate amounts of
HHO and drawing very low amperage. I increase amperage which increase the production of HHO. Mind you, this is
installed on a 1600 CC air cooled VW engine. The first increase in amperage netted me the same mileage. So I increased
the amps even more, being careful since all I had was a 30 amp generator that happened be 41 years old. My mileage
actually began to drop. What I learned was significant. When I was drawing 2 amps or less I got better mileage. Once I
increased the amps, I found the mileage either did not improve or got worse. The closer I got to 10 amps the worse the
mileage. I think I now know why after installing one of these units on an AMC Gremlin equipped with a much larger
engine. On any engine, depending on displacement and whether it is a gasoline or diesel, there is a place where
moderate amps can be absorbed by an engine in a sort of flywheel effect. In other words, the "flywheel effect" is the
place where the action of the engine idling actually pulls the resistance by the moderate amperage without affecting
overall engine performance such as idle or fuel consumption. As long as you stay in this sweet spot that that
particular engine, the HHO produced with be nearly free. On my AMC Gremlin I noticed I could pull much higher amperage
without noticing an effect on engine idle when suddenly switching the unit on. Mileage was great, about 35 to 45%
better, in this range. Once I increased amperage to the point where idle would drop when switching the unit on, despite
the increase in HHO production, my mileage either did not improve and usually dropped. This is a significant point to
remember as some hydrogen units need lots of amperage in order to achieve peak efficiency. If one of these units are
installed on an engine that is too small then the electrolyte must be diluted to drop amperage which drops unit
efficiency, or mileage won't be peak and the effort will be disappointing.
Currently I'm working on a formula based on total square inches of surface area of the plates to determine where the
amperage needs to be to achieve peak efficiency. This first work is being done on a simple plate set up that totals
approximately 13.5 square inches per plate utilizing 3 neutral plates gapped at approximately 1/16th of an inch
(+nnn-). This will accomplish two main objectives. It will allow a user to achieve peak efficiency from their units by
using an ammeter and adjusting amp draw by strengthening or diluting the electrolyte. Also, depending on the engine
size, anyone can select the perfect plate size for the maximum amps the engine can easily pull to avoid ruining
efficiency by drawing more amperage than the engine can efficiently pull. This way the user can select the perfect
hydrogen generator design for the engine. You do not want to go past 5 or 6 amps if your engine is a 2 liter gasoline
powered engine otherwise your mileage won't be a great as you expected. In fact, I've found the more conservative you
go, the better. An engine that has a unit that is way too small will get better performance, based on my information,
than the same engine with a unit that is way too big.
Another improvement, if many of you are following my videos, is the venturi effect I've discovered to utilize a
cooler to keep unit temperatures down. Instead of using an overhead water tank, as many on the net are doing such as
Steve (delvis11 on
YouTube) at http://www.HydrogenKo.com, I added a funnel/venturi orifice inside the unit that
draws water through the unit and through a tube with great flow. The overhead water tank designs also provide good
flow, but the tank takes up valuable space under the hood of cars that today have little extra space. By adding the
venturi inside the unit the flow is increased dramatically and instead of an overhead water tank all that is required
are tubing to add a cooler that can be installed behind the grill of the car or truck for cooling. I've been using
magnets in conjunction with this venturi design to reduce water/electrolyte foaming which makes the units potentially
less explosive should there be an electrical short below the water line such as in the plates/electrodes themselves. If
you haven't seen the videos, generally the electrolyte/water gets homogenized with foam or microscopic bubbles of HHO.
This circulates throughout the unit and is drawn back under and through the plates/electrodes. Once magnets are
installed the microscopic bubbles appear to attract each other and join together forming larger bubbles that rise to
the top faster and reduce or eliminate the foamy/cloudy condition. Using my system to measure the production of HHO
I've not found this to increase production, just seems to keep the electrolyte clear keeping bubbles at the top 2 or 3
inches of water.
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